Phang Nga Town & Phang Nga Bay Rock Climbing Trip Report

Rock climbing with Dave Williams, November 2010, Phuket and environs,
by Dr. Andrew Curran

Its just warm not too hot and the rain is intermittent. Outside Phuket Town is in the middle of its morning. Just across from the hotel an overweight Thai woman has just parked her vast 4 X 4. She has blocked in a three or four cars but she leaves her vehicle with a disdainful flick-flick of the indicator lights as she fobs the car locks. I have to grin. Her pampered flesh could have been in any town anywhere in the world. My lift turns up at 12 exactly as planned. Air conditioned comfort, a people wagon built for nine and I am the only passenger. I settle back into the armchair size seats and enjoy the journey.

Travelling through Phuket is to be struck repeatedly by the contrast between the modern and expensive vehicles that smooth along shoulder to shoulder with the battered motor bikes packed with families and sundry baggage. Steel framed side cars carry the days produce to sell at roadside sites. Lining the roads are the same mixture of modern buildings resplendent in glass and bright fresh colours and the tattered, battered cement block constructions that house the local trades people selling everything from clothes through old motor cycle parts to seven-elevens and minimarts.

Journeys end is Phang-Nga town. Well off the tourist trail it is quintessential Thailand. The main street is long and wide with the same mix of modern and expensive and rudimentary and cheap. Dave is at the guest house. Tall and faintly lugubrious I get to meet the owner of PaddleAsia for the first time. His e mails had a directness and humour about them that is easily apparent in his lanky frame and engaging smile. His manner is easy going, accepting, competent. I feel immediately at ease and confident that I have booked exactly what I want. What i have booked is 10 days of climbing one-to-one with Dave.

We are both of an age, both climb about 5a – 5b, both out to enjoy without creating an aggressive and competitive environment.

And it works better than I thought was possible. We started on some cool 4a – 4b limestone in Phang-Nga park. This is a serene space of water sculpted limestone and tranquil corners. The local population of monkeys are charming to watch and are delighted with the bunches of bananas we give them from time to time. Dave’s climbing is excellent. Unhurried, very safety conscious and professional. At no time did I feel concerned for my or his safety. I have only been climbing for a year but within a few days felt a level of confidence under Dave’s calm tutelage that would have taken me months at the local climbing wall in the UK. I led my first 4a the next day. I cheated like mad with trad which Dave is also highly expert with but made it to the top anchor. What a great feeling! My first lead successfully completed –and not in the rain and cold of the UK but in the middle of a limestone park in the middle of Thailand. Major success! Thailand rock climbing trip report

Two more days in Phang-Nga to consolidate what I was learning. Dave gave me a whole afternoon teaching on trad using a huge limestone boulder. Feeling increasingly confident and absolutely happy with the choice of guide and travel company we moved on to Phang-Nga Bay and the island of Koh Yao Noi. Sensational! Tranquil, tropical paradise. Long tail boats, bamboo and wood bungalows, the beach ten feet from the bar. And the climbing. A cliff suspended twenty feet above the bay with a four feet wide belay stand and any number of amazing climbs. I lead another 4b on day one. Great experience. Felt nicely stretched but another great boost for my confidence. Now I was ready for the 5b Dave had been gently leading me towards since I had arrived on Phuket.

Dave led off first. Strong careful climbing that I was learning from just watching. I lowered him back down and then it was my turn. Clingy grips, a few buckets then onto the first ledge to let my heart slow down and the sweat cool. Up I went again now ten metres over the ocean. Grips fine but technically I am starting to be challenged. It feels real good. Another ledge and a much needed breather. I make my way on up until I get to where Dave had reached. It’s a long way up. I am feeling exposed but ready for a bigger challenge now I have nearly 9 days climbing under my belt. “Going past the protection” I shouted down to Dave. “OK.” Comes the laconic reply. Five hard working minutes later I have placed two quick draws and feel like a giant among climbers. Down I come and we spend the next few hours experimenting with different routes. Dave gets the protection another two bolts higher. Amazing!

Last day I need a wind down so we kayak for the morning.

Amazing trip. Amazing experience. Truly legendary guy. Thanks Dave. I’ll be back.

One of the joys of climbing at the park in Phang Nga Town is that you can park right beside the climb. This particular climb is known as the Bee Line. If you go a bit off-route near the top, you're greeted by the local bee mafia. Ah, nothing like an aggressive insect to remind you to stay on line. We actually opted to stop our climb just under the potential assailants. This is a nice 5b route.

Author, Dr. Andrew Curran taking a short break before attempting a really difficult first move off of the ground on an over-hanging route. Shortly after this photo, with a pronounced grunt, Andrew torgued himself past a couple of small pinch holds to the first bucket. It was a very tough move and Andrew had every right to be proud of how well he did it.

Dave chillin' and having a cleansing ale at the cottage on Ko Yao Noi.

I would rather climb as easy route with great form than a hard route sloppily." Dave Williams

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This page last updated on Wednesday, December 25, 2013