Rock climbing with Dave Williams.
November 2010, Phuket and environs,
by Dr. Andrew Curran 
Its just warm not too hot and the
rain is intermittent. Outside Phuket Town is in the
middle of its morning. Just across from the hotel an
overweight Thai woman has just parked her vast 4 X 4.
She has blocked in a three or four cars but she leaves
her vehicle with a disdainful flick-flick of the indicator
lights as she fobs the car locks. I have to grin. Her
pampered flesh could have been in any town anywhere
in the world. My lift turns up at 12 exactly as planned.
Air conditioned comfort, a people wagon built for nine
and I am the only passenger. I settle back into the
armchair size seats and enjoy the journey.
Travelling through Phuket is to be
struck repeatedly by the contrast between the modern
and expensive vehicles that smooth along shoulder to
shoulder with the battered motor bikes packed with families
and sundry baggage. Steel framed side cars carry the
days produce to sell at roadside sites. Lining the roads
are the same mixture of modern buildings resplendent
in glass and bright fresh colours and the tattered,
battered cement block constructions that house the local
trades people selling everything from clothes through
old motor cycle parts to seven-elevens and minimarts.
 Journeys
end is Phang-Nga town. Well off the tourist trail it
is quintessential Thailand. The main street is long
and wide with the same mix of modern and expensive and
rudimentary and cheap. Dave is at the guest house. Tall
and faintly lugubrious I get to meet the owner of PaddleAsia
for the first time. His e mails had a directness and
humour about them that is easily apparent in his lanky
frame and engaging smile. His manner is easy going,
accepting, competent. I feel immediately at ease and
confident that I have booked exactly what I want. What
i have booked is 10 days of climbing one-to-one with
Dave.
We are both of an age, both climb about
5a – 5b, both out to enjoy without creating an
aggressive and competitive environment.
And it works better than I thought
was possible. We started on some cool 4a – 4b
limestone in Phang-Nga park. This is a serene space
of water sculpted limestone and tranquil corners. The
local population of monkeys are charming to watch and
are delighted with the bunches of bananas we give them
from time to time. Dave’s climbing is excellent.
Unhurried, very safety conscious and professional. At
no time did I feel concerned for my or his safety. I
have only been climbing for a year but within a few
days felt a level of confidence under Dave’s calm
tutelage that would have taken me months at the local
climbing wall in the UK. I led my first 4a the next
day. I cheated like mad with trad which Dave is also
highly expert with but made it to the top anchor. What
a great feeling! My first lead successfully completed
–and not in the rain and cold of the UK but in
the middle of a limestone park in the middle of Thailand.
Major success! 
Two more days in Phang-Nga to consolidate
what I was learning. Dave gave me a whole afternoon
teaching on trad using a huge limestone boulder. Feeling
increasingly confident and absolutely happy with the
choice of guide and travel company we moved on to Phang-Nga
Bay and the island of Koh Yao Noi. Sensational! Tranquil,
tropical paradise. Long tail boats, bamboo and wood
bungalows, the beach ten feet from the bar. And the
climbing. A cliff suspended twenty feet above the bay
with a four feet wide belay stand and any number of
amazing climbs. I lead another 4b on day one. Great
experience. Felt nicely stretched but another great
boost for my confidence. Now I was ready for the 5b
Dave had been gently leading me towards since I had
arrived on Phuket.
Dave led off first. Strong careful
climbing that I was learning from just watching. I lowered
him back down and then it was my turn. Clingy grips,
a few buckets then onto the first ledge to let my heart
slow down and the sweat cool. Up I went again now ten
metres over the ocean. Grips fine but technically I
am starting to be challenged. It feels real good. Another
ledge and a much needed breather. I make my way on up
until I get to where Dave had reached. It’s a
long way up. I am feeling exposed but ready for a bigger
challenge now I have nearly 9 days climbing under my
belt. “Going past the protection” I shouted
down to Dave. “OK.” Comes the laconic reply.
Five hard working minutes later I have placed two quick
draws and feel like a giant among climbers. Down I come
and we spend the next few hours experimenting with different
routes. Dave gets the protection another two bolts higher.
Amazing!
Last day I need a wind down so we kayak
for the morning.
Amazing trip. Amazing experience. Truly
legendary guy. Thanks Dave. I’ll be back.
Author, Dr. Andrew Curran taking a short break
before attempting a really difficult first move
off of the ground on an over-hanging route.
Shortly after this photo, with a pronounced
grunt, Andrew torgued himself past a couple
of small pinch holds to the first bucket. It
was a very tough move and Andrew had every right
to be proud of how well he did it.
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One of the joys of climbing at the park in
Phang Nga Town is that you can park right beside
the climb. This particular climb is known as
the Bee Line. If you go a bit off-route
near the top, you're greeted by the local bee
mafia. Ah, nothing like an aggressive insect
to remind you to stay on line. We actually opted
to stop our climb just under the potential assailants.
This is a nice 5b route.
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Dave
chillin' and having a cleansing ale at the Pasai
Cottage on Ko Yao Noi.
 Click
here to see a video of rock
climbing in the city
park in Phang Nga Town. Please subscribe to
my YouTube
channel.
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